sunshine through the fog

Here begins the log of the 2nd lap of our Cambodia trip. Sorry I took so long - been feeling under the weather and... I admit, inevitable sloth. :p

I've also decided to divert from the original intention of separating this travel log into two, by the town we visited. On second thoughts though, considering the length, numerous photos, richness of Angkor and personal propensity for procrastination, the blog for this trip's gonna be split into 3 parts - Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and Ankor. As a result, the entries might not run in chronological order as obviously, Siem Reap and Angkor are inextricably interlaced. However, that's something we all have to live with. As with so many other things in life...

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21 Oct 2005 (Friday) pm ~ Rainy

Reached Siem Reap town slightly after 1pm - the Mekong Express is pretty prompt and on-time. I approve. Instantly mopped by the moto/remorque touts on descent from the bus. I was rather taken aback and, what with the "security guards" holding back the over-zealous beings, wacking them on the leg with canes, I momentarily caught a very very mere glimpse of what being a celebrity might feel like. *smirk*

We were met by a remorque driver sent by Sokha, who couldn't make it there himself and were safely transported to our hotel - Borei Angkor - without too much hassle or trauma. Wanted to upgrade as we realised the room we booked was in the old wing but unfortunately, the deluxe rooms in the brand new main building were all fully taken up. Apparently, the peak season's near and it's a popular hotel. Oh well, we got a good deal on the Standard room rate courtesy of Sharonne, so we shan't complain. It's a decent hotel with very friendly, helpful staff and the room's clean, albeit a bit old.

Took a remorque down to the Old Market area for some shopping and makan. Had lunch at the Blue Pumpkin - highly recommended by Ruiming who was there a month before moi. Loved the decor - very clean, modern, minimal and comfy. Upstairs indoors is nicer - airconditioned and with huge white couch/beds to sit on (see photo). You can tell right away it's a tourist haven, for resting of tired feet, flipping of travel guides to decide on the next destination, hide away from the blazing Angkor sun and a nice spot of essential body nourishment. On the right's our favourite dish - Amok Fish Ravioli. Amok is a popular Cambodian curry which is steamed instead of boiled and is solid, but moist. Here is a twist to the traditional dish which marries the Amok with pasta, a totally fantalicious union. We enjoyed it so much we went back again two nights later, ordering the same thing! We tried the burger too - not fantastic, not great. Not advisable to try unless you have serious craving for american-style burger.

Siem Reap's a small provincial capital that prospered from its proximity to the pride of Cambodia - Angkor Archaeological Park. Nestled between rice paddies and stretched along the Siem Reap River, the town is actually a cluster of old villages, which originally developed around individual pagodas, and later overlaid with a French colonial-era center. It now serves as a gateway to millennium-old temple ruins of Angkor, offering numerours hotels, guesthouses, restaurants, pubs and shops. Personally I prefer Siem Reap to Phnom Penh as I find the people friendlier, the pace more laidback, and buzzing with Angkor preoccupation with names of most establishments derivatives in one way or another of the temples of Angkor. It's touristy but hey, that's their main revenue generator and it's quaint in a corny cliched manner.

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24 Oct 2005 (Monday) ~ Sunny

After two days traipsing from temple to temple and with Angkor Wat left as the grand finale, we decided to spend a large part of our last full day in Cambodia experiencing traditional Cambodia with a morning boat trip on Tonle Sap Lake and buffet dinner watching Apsara dance performances.

Tonle Sap

The Tonle Sap Lake, 30 minutes south of Siem Reap, is one of the largest freshwater lakes in the world, cyclically swelling from 2500km² to more than 12,000 km² in the wet season. Floating fishing villages dot the semi-submerged forest that lines the flood plane rim of the lake, offering an excellent place to see lakeside rural Cambodia, and a unique ecosystem rich with birds and other wildlife.





The lake is so large that when we reach its centre, it's difficult to differentiate the horizon from that of the sea's. Kids roll towards you from cute little basin-like contraptions - to ask for money. At once offputting and saddening at the same time...





A small fish farm we visited - snake-head fish (on the left) and crocodiles (on the right).



After the boat trip, we went to the Old Market for a last spot of shopping and lunch before going back to the hotel for a rest. Angkor Wat in the afternoon! But that's in Part III... :p

Apsara Dance

Innumerable apsaras - celestial dancers - adorn the walls of many of the Angkorian temples. Their earthly counterparts performed traditional dances for the kings, and these dances have been passed down through the ages. For our last night in Cambodia, we decided this experience should be part of ours to keep. So, on recommendation from Sharonne, Khorn sent us to Bayon II restaurant amidst thundering skies and pouring rain. Frankly, it looks very much like the Thai dance performances to me, especially the headdress and moves etc. But apparently, according to Khorn, Apsara dancers have to start training from a very young age so as to make their bodies, especially their hands very very flexible. Oh well... The photos are not of very good quality as it was at night and the lighting wasn't fantastic. Hey, at least the downpour relented enough in time for the performance...

By the way, just an aside on what happened that night before the performance. Khorn's really very nice - invited us to his home for a drink and chat after Angkor Wat. Rather enjoyable, really. However, on arrival, turned out the place is full from tourist groups. We had to virtually beg for them to accomodate us, which was really silly as it's a buffet so for them, there's no additional cost at all! And there're only the two of us, it's raining cats and dogs and we told our remorque driver to pick us up there after the performance so we couldn't leave anyway. Anyway, in the end they "reluctantly" sat us at a corner of a long table of french tourists. Ravenous us couldn't wait to get to the buffet table - someone's obviously happy. :D